20
Man Ying is a Shan village, but there are a number of Chinese squatters here, and also at Lien Ti, 14 miles further north in the river valley (where there is a Chinese hereditary "t'u-ssu"), and further north, beyond Lien Ti, at Luku, Teng Keng, and the villages which are the property of the Chinese Tuan clan. (See above.)
Chinese cannot live permanently in the Salwen valley at the latitude of the suspension bridge, on account of the deadly malaria—famous from Marco Polo's description. Yet, at Mengku, only 30 miles further north, we find "John Chinaman" flourishing, and bullying the Shans after his manner. I was solemnly assured that, except in the autumn, when it is dangerous to travel, there is no such disease as malaria known north of the suspension bridge!
The Chinese do not, according to my information, extend north of about latitude 26° 30′ in the Salwen valley; beyond that the population is Lisaw. But I was told at Man Ying that the river banks further north are very precipitous, so probably there is not much population of any kind. I may further mention that, north of Luku (which was visited by Prince Henri), the Salwen valley is quite unexplored. Here is a chance for some of our enterprising geographers and travellers. Unluckily, Consular officers rarely have time for so long and difficult an expedition. Perhaps the Government of India will see to it that this blank in the map is filled up. A Chinese merchant at Man Ying told me that it would be difficult, but quite possible, to ascend the course of the Salwen for "several tens of stages," but that the track would not be possible for mules. Precipices and lack of supplies would, I was told, be a greater obstacle than the inhabitants.
up
On starting from Man Ying up the range which hangs over the west bank of the Salwen, and which divided us from the Irrawadi basin, the worthy Headman warned us against the robbers on the slopes and the poisonous herbs on the summit, which would infallibly kill our animals if allowed to feed there. The whole morning we ascended steadily, passing through a series of zones of vegetation, till we reached the terrace of Hui Po (7,700 feet). After a halt here we were told that there was a camping-ground a little higher up, at Ta Lan Pa, and, while ascending a steep spur to that place, we came upon the robbers, sure enough. At a spot where the road is only a few yards broad, with precipices on both sides, a petty officer, stationed there to guard the road, had erected a couple of gateways at a short distance from each other. These formed a sort of trap, and any porters or mules passing by (and the number is considerable) are held here until they have satisfied the demands of the gallant officer. A large salt and sugar caravan of some fifty mules was in the trap when I arrived on the scene, and a terrific hubbub was going on. However, as soon as the officer saw a foreigner he at once opened the gates, and we proceeded to the camping-ground with our rescued friends. The camp was a small, open plot on the top of the spur, at 8,900 feet, where a bitter wind raged furiously all night, banishing sleep; so, at the very top of the morning, we continued our toilsome ascent along a narrow path, with a ravine on both sides of us. The whole mountain-side is covered with a dense forest of pines, rhododendrons, and other shrubs, and there are no human dwellings above Hui Po. The last half-hour to the summit of the pass, which is known as the Ma Mien Kuan, was comparatively easy going over snow, through one of those dense bamboo brakes which are usually found on the upper slopes of the great ranges in this part of Yünnan. The summit of the Ma Mien is 10,000 feet, and the total ascent from the jungles on the banks of the Salwen to the snows on the top of the pass required six and a-half hours of march. The view from this pass to the west comprises all the northern part of the Teng Yueh district. At the spectator's feet are the upper valleys of the Shweli (or Lung Chiang) and the Ta Ho (or Ta Ping) Rivers. To the south-west the crater-like summit of the Ta Yin Shan mountain, which hangs over Teng Yueh, is conspicuous. To the west the trend of the valley of Ming Kwang can be made out, and in this direction the prospect is closed by a long and well-defined range with a snow-powdered peak. This is the range on the east bank of the N'maikha branch of the Irrawadi, and the peak is Ming Kwang Pum, so well known to the Kachins. This Ming Kwang range is, in fact, their frontier, and should be made the frontier of the British Empire. To the north and north-west were spread confused masses of hills beyond the head-waters of the Shweli. These are inhabited by the wild Lisaw, who admit no man as their lord.
the
The Salwen-Irrawadi divide, which we crossed at the Ma Mien, is a very conspicuous object from Teng Yueh. The Burmah-Ta Li trade route crosses it on the second stage out from Teng Yueh—a tough ascent, but nothing like the Ma Mien Kwan.
We descended to the Upper Shweli Valley from the Ma Mien Kwan, at first by a steep and difficult corkscrew path littered with stones. At 10,000 feet there is a small temple where benighted wayfarers may rest. The descent here is so steep that there is hardly any snow, and it continues down and down to a dark defile, along which flows a mountain stream. Then the path leads by the banks of the stream through a damp and sunless forest, where the moisture favours the growth of great tree-ferns. At 8,300 feet the defile becomes impassable, and the road has been skilfully taken up to the shoulder of a spur on the south of it, whence, after three hours' march from the top of the pass, we emerged from the forest at 7,800 feet. From this point a good path leads down to the valley, through plantations of the shrub locally known as "kou shu" (though it is not the real "kou," but Edgworthia Gardnerii), from the bark of which an excellent paper is made. This industry occupies 150 families in the valley. After passing the tax station of Shan Yao we wound down into the heart of the valley, and struck the east branch of the Upper Shweli at the little town of Chiao T'ou (100 houses), where we camped after a long march of nine hours.
21
This valley is watered by the most easterly of the three streams, which join to form the Shweli or Lung Chiang River, which, sweeping round in a south-west direction through the Lung Ling district, and receiving many tributaries as it goes, forms the frontier between the Chinese Shan State of Meng Mao and the Burmese Northern Shan States for some distance, and finally flows through Burmah and joins the Irrawadi, of which it forms one of the most important tributaries.
The east head-stream of the Shweli is locally known as the Ta Tang River, because it issues from the mountains of Ta T'ang, 15 miles, or one day's journey north of Chiao Tou. Chinese jurisdiction only extends to the head of this stream.
This upper valley of the Shweli is certainly one of the most beautiful in Yünnan. A series of ridges descending from the imposing Ma Mien Kwan range cross it, and it is broken up into well-wooded knolls and terraced slopes, abundantly supplied with good water, and in the folds of which are numerous villages and farmsteads surrounded with bamboo clumps. The population is dense and entirely Chinese.
Moving down the valley in a southerly direction for 5 miles, we reached Kai T'ou, a market with 200 houses and a yamên, the residence of a petty civil official, who is under the sub-Prefect of Teng Yuch. From Kai Tou, Teng Yueh city can be reached in two easy days, following the Ta Tang Valley for 15 miles, and then by a gentle col passing into the Ta Ping Valley, and entering the city by the North Gate. We, however, desired to see the other head-waters of the Shweli, and moved out of the Kai Tou in a west direction, crossing the river at [] miles by an elegant camel's-back wooden bridge, and then up the western slopes which fringe the valley of Kai Tou, and so to a pass 7,100 feet, from which there is a good view of Ming Kwang Pum, with its winter cap of snow.
of
Descending through a gorge at 9 miles from Kai Tou the path divides, one route bearing north-west into the Ming Kwang Valley, and the other which we followed, south-west to the bamboo huts of the village of Hokow, which is by the banks of the second or middle head-branch of the Shweli. This is a shallow stream, 30 yards broad, flowing over a pebbly bottom; its source is in the hills north of Ming Kwang Valley, and it is locally known as the Ming Kwang River. From Ho K'ou to Ming Kwang is only half a day's journey. In the hills near Ho K'on village silver is worked, and the ore is smelted at a small establishment by the roadside. The output is said to be inconsiderable.
Wading our beasts across the Ming Kwang stream, we marched south, along a good road, first by some padi-fields and then over bare downs, the stream being lost in a gorge to our left. At 16 miles we looked down on the extensive Hsi Lien Valley, and could trace across the plain the winding course of the Ming Kwang stream and of the third, most westerly and smallest, of the three head-streams of the Shweli; the two streams join in the south-east corner of the Hsi Lien Valley, and so flow on to their junction with the Ta Tang stream, from which point the Shweli proper may be said to begin. We descended to Ku Tung, the chief market of the Hsi Lien Valley, which contains much uncultivated land, though there is a fringe of villages along the banks of the streams, and irrigation works would do wonders for the whole valley. From Ku Tung to Teng Yueh is a long day's march, through not very populous upland valleys, in sight of the Ta Yin Shan hill the whole way until the traveller passes the north shoulder of that conspicuous mountain and descends into Teng Yueh.
[2021-1]
Q
254
20
Man Ying is a Shan village, but there are a number of Chinese squatters here, and also at Lien Ti, 14 miles further north in the river valley (where there is a Chinese hereditary "t'u-ssu "), and further north, beyond Lien Ti, at Luku, Teng Keng, and the villages which are the property of the Chinese Tuan clan. (See above.)
Chinese cannot live permanently in the Salwen valley at the latitude of the suspen- sion bridge, on account of the deadly malaria-famous from Marco Polo's description Yet, at Mengku, only 30 miles further north, we find "John Chinaman" flourishing, and bullying the Shans after his manner. I was solemnly assured that, except in the autumn, when it is dangerous to travel, there is no such disease as malaria known north of the suspension bridge!
The Chinese do not, according to my information, extend north of about latitude 26° 30′ in the Salwen valley; beyond that the population is Lisaw. But I was told at Man Ying that the river banks further north are very precipitous, so probably there is not much population of any kind. I may further mention that, north of Luku (which was visited. by Prince Henri), the Salwen valley is quite unexplored. Here is a chance for some of our enterprising geographers and travellers. Unluckily, Consular officers rarely have time for so long and difficult an expedition. Perhaps the Government of India will see to it that this blank in the map is filled up. A Chinese merchant at Man Ying told me that it would be difficult, but quite possible, to ascend the course of the Salwen for " 'several tens of stages," but that the track would not be possible for mules. Precipices and lack of supplies would, I was told, be a greater obstacle than the inhabitants.
up
On starting from Man Ying up the range which hangs over the west bank of the Salwen, and which divided us from the Irrawadi basin, the worthy Headman warned us against the robbers on the slopes and the poisonous herbs on the summit, which would infallibly kill our animals if allowed to feed there. The whole morning we ascended steadily, passing through a series of zones of vegetation, till we reached the terrace of Hui Po (7,700 feet). After a halt here we were told that there was a camping-ground a little higher up, at Ta Lan Pa, and, while ascending a steep spur to that place, we came upon the robbers, sure enough At a spot where the road is only a few yards broad, with precipices on both sides, a petty officer, stationed there to guard the road, had erected a couple of gateways at a short distance from each other. These formed a sort of trap, and any porters or mules passing by (and the number is considerable) are "held here until they bave satisfied the demands of the gallant officer. A large salt and sugar caravan of some fifty mules was in the trap when I arrived on the scene, and a terrific hubbub was going ou. However, as soon as the officer saw a foreigner he at once opened the gates, and we proceeded to the camping-ground with our rescued friends. The camp was a small, open plot on the top of the spur, at 8,900 feet, where a bitter wind raged furiously all night, banishing sleep; so, at the very top of the morning, we continued our toilsome ascent along a narrow path, with a ravine on both sides of us. The whole mountain-side is covered with a dense forest of pines, rhododendrons, and other shrubs, and there are no human dwellings above Hui Po. The last half-hour to the summit of the pass, which is known as the Ma Mien Kuan, was comparatively easy going over snow, through one of those dense bamboo brakes which are usually found on the upper slopes of the great ranges in this part of Yünnan. The summit of the Ma Mien is 10,000 feet, and the total ascent from the jungles on the banks of the Salwen to the snows on the top of the pass required six and a-half hours of march. The view from this pass to the west comprises all the northern part of the Teng Yueh district. At the spectator's feet are the upper valleys of the Shweli (or Lung Chiang) and the Ta Ho (or Ta Ping) Bivers. To the south-west the crater-like summit of the Ta Yin Shan mountain, which hangs over Teng Yueh, is conspicuous. To the west the trend of the valley of Ming Kwang can be made out, and in this direction the prospect is closed by a long and well-defined range with a snow-powdered peak. This is the range on the east bank of the N'maikha branch of the Irrawadi, and the peak is Ming Kwang Pum, so well known to the Kachins. This Ming Kwang range is, in fact, their frontier, and should be made the frontier of the British Empire. To the north and north-west were spread confused masses of hills beyond the head-waters of the Shweli. These are inhabited by the wild Lisaw, who admit no man as their lord.
the
The Salwen-Irrawadi divide, which we crossed at the Ma Mien, is a very con spicuous object from Teng Yueh. The Burmah-Ta Li trade route crosses it on second stage out from Teng Yueh-a tough ascent, but nothing like the Ma Mien Kwan.
We descended to the Upper Shweli Valley from the Ma Mien Kwan, at first by a
21
steep and difficult corkscrew path littered with stones. At 10,000 feet there is a small temple where benighted wayfarers may rest. The descent here is so steep that there is hardly any snow, and it continues down and down to a dark defile, along which flows a mountain stream. Then the path leads by the banks of the stream through a damp and sunless forest, where the moisture favours the growth of great tree-ferns. At 8,300 feet the defile becomes impassable, and the road has been skilfully taken up to the shoulder of a spur on the south of it, whence, after three hours' march from the top of the pass, we emerged from the forest at 7,800 feet. From this point a good path leads down to the valley, through plantations of the shrub locally known as "kou shu" (though it is not the real "kou," but Edgworthia Gardnerii), from the bark of which an excellent paper is made. This industry occupies 150 families in the valley. After passing the tax station of Shan Yao we wound down into the heart of the valley, and struck the east branch of the Upper Shweli at the little town of Chiao T'ou (100 houses), where we camped after a long march of nine hours.
This valley is watered by the most easterly of the three streams, which join to form the Shweli or Lung Chiang River, which, sweeping round in a south-west direction through the Lung Ling district, and receiving many tributaries as it goes, forms the frontier between the Chinese Shan State of Meng Mao and the Burmese Northern Shan States for some distance, and finally flows through Burmah and joins the Irrawadi, of which it forms one of the most important tributaries.
The east head-stream of the Shweli is locally known as the Ta Tang River, because it issues from the mountains of Ta T'ang, 15 miles, or one day's journey north of Chiao Tou. Chinese jurisdiction only extends to the head of this stream.
This upper valley of the Shweli is certainly one of the most beautiful in Yünnan. A series of ridges descending from the imposing Ma Mien Kwan range cross it, and it is broken up into well-wooded knolls and terraced slopes, abundantly supplied with good water, and in the folds of which are numerous villages and farmsteads surrounded with bamboo clumps. The population is dense and entirely Chinese.
Moving down the valley in a southerly direction for 5 miles, we reached Kai T'ou, a market with 200 houses and a yamên, the residence of a petty civil official, who is under the sub-Prefect of Teng Yuch. From Kai Tou, Teng Yueh city can be reached in two easy days, following the Ta Tang Valley for 15 miles, and then by a gentle col passing into the Ta Ping Valley, and entering the city by the North Gate. We, however, desired to see the other bead-waters of the Shweli, and moved out of the Kai Tou in a west direction, crossing the river at [] miles by an elegant camel's-back wooden bridge, and then up the western slopes which fringe the valley of Kai Tou, and so to a pass 7,100 feet, from which there is a good view of Ming Kwang Pum, with its winter cap
snow.
of
Descending through a gorge at 9 miles from Kai Tou the path divides, one route bearing north-west into the Ming Kwang Valley, and the other which we followed, south- west to the bamboo huts of the village of Hokow, which is by the banks of the second or middle head-branch of the Shweli. This is a shallow stream, 30 yards broad, flowing over a pebbly bottom; its source is in the hills north of Ming Kwang Valley, and it is locally known as the Ming Kwang River. From Ho K'ou to Ming Kwang is only half a day's journey. In the hills near Ho K'on village silver is worked, and the ore is smelted at a small establishment by the roadside. The output is said to be incon- siderable.
Wading our beasts across the Ming Kwang stream, we marched south, along a good road, first by some padi-fields and then over bare downs, the stream being lost in a gorge to our left, At 16 miles we looked down on the extensive Hsi Lien Valley, and could trace across the plain the winding course of the Ming Kwang stream and of the third, most westerly and smallest, of the three head-streams of the Shweli; the two streams join in the south-east corner of the Hsi Lien Valley, and so flow on to their junction with the Ta Tang stream, from which point the Shweli proper may be said to begin. We descended to Ku Tung, the chief market of the Hsi Lien Valley, which contains much uncultivated land, though there is a fringe of villages along the banks of the streams, and irrigation works would do wonders for the whole valley. From Ku Tung to Teng Yueh is a long day's mareb, through not very populous upland valleys, in sight of the Ta Yin Shan hill the whole way until the traveller passes the north shoulder of that conspicuous mountain and descends into Teng Yueh.
[2021 -1]
Q
254
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